POOL CLEANING SERVICES

There are a few things you can do.  Empty your skimmers and cleaner bag more often.  You can backwash more often.  If you run the pool a little bit longer, that will help too.

There are a lot of answers to that question.  I like to stick with this rule of thumb.  For every 10 degrees you should run your pool an hour.  If your temperatures are running 90 degrees F, you’ll want to run your pool at least 9 hours a day.  You can reduce this run time as the temperatures decrease.  However, in some situations that rule might not apply.  If you have a lot of leaves in the pool or you run your pool heater in the colder weather, you’ll want to run the pool longer.  You’re pool will look it’s best if you run it 12 hours a day during extreme conditions such as 100 degree weather or if you have just had a flood. 

Some pools are equipped with a freeze protection system.  If your system does not have this, you’ll want to turn the pool equipment on when the temperature forecast is calling for freezing temperatures which are 32 degrees F and under.  The best thing is to run the pool overnight when you are expecting freezing temperatures.  If you think that’s not enough, you can cover the pipes and filter with a tarp or blanket, but do not cover the electric parts or the heater.  That can cause a fire.  

If you are using granular calcium hypochlorite you can add it either straight to the pool if you have white plaster.  If you have a colored pool surface, you should dissolve the granular chlorine in water before you add it to the pool.  I fill up a bucket of water and add the desired amount of granular chlorine to it.  I then stir it up to make sure it all gets wet.  Then I wait 10 minutes.  I stir it a few times between the 1st time and before I add it to the pool.  

Other granular chlorine doesn’t have to be done this way.  Please follow the instructions on the labels of the products you use. 

This depends on what you are trying to accomplish.  I like the granular chlorine like calcium hypochlorite because it adds calcium to the pool and has no stabilizer and raises the pH by a little bit.  But it raises the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids).  I like liquid chlorine because it doesn’t cloud the water or raise TDS.  It leaves the pool clear. However, it raises the pH quite a bit.  More muriatic acid is required to keep the pH in check if you use the liquid chlorine often.  Also, the liquid chlorine comes in different strengths and if it is not used properly, it will cause a lot of scaling and the chlorine that you do add might not be effective.  As always, follow the directions on the label and use common sense or hire a professional like Right Water Pool Service & Repairs.  

Should I drain my pool and just start over?

The only times I recommend draining are when the stabilizer (CYA) levels are too high and causing problems, or your pool is a swamp.  By swamp, I mean if the algae is really thick and you’ve had a lot of problems with it in the past.  If this is the case, you should drain the pool and give it an acid wash or chlorine bath.  Then refill and start over.

No, we do not work with above ground pools at this time.  

We only do chemistry only service on a standalone hot tub and balance chemicals.  We include that with your bill if you have an inground service and we service the pool.  We won’t come out to do a standalone spa by itself, however.  If your pool has a spa or hot tub included in the system, that is also covered in our full service packages.

We only do chemistry only service on a standalone fountain.  We remove the debris from the pump and add chlorine.  This is only for customers who have a pool that we service and there is an extra charge. 

No, you don’t need to be home.  We will take care of what is needed and let you know what was done.  If you have a gate code or combination to a lock on your gate, please provide it.  If a key is required, please provide a copy.  

This is a detailed service to keep your pool looking it’s best.  

• We empty the skimmer baskets
• If you have an automatic cleaner (definitely needed but not required) we empty the bag or the basket.
• We brush the steps, walls, and tile.
• We vacuum the pool floors if needed. (It’s usually needed.)
• We inspect the pool equipment to make sure there aren’t any leaks and everything is running properly.  We let you know if we see a problem.
• We empty the pump basket if needed.
• We test the water chemistry and balance the basic water chemistry (pH, Free Chlorine, Total Alkalinity).  We also test for other factors once a month.  These factors include but are not limited to Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) levels, phosphate levels, and Calcium Hardness Levels.  If there are phosphates in the water and the level is over 500 bpm, there’s an extra charge to remove those.  If the Stabilizer level needs increased, there is an extra charge.  If the calcium hardness level needs to be increased, there will be an extra charge.  If the Stabilizer level needs 
• to be decreased and the levels are over 100 you will need to drain most of the pool to bring that factor back to acceptable levels (Under 50ppm).  Many professionals including myself require this to happen every couple of years especially when there’s a lot of problems with algae and chlorine demand.  

If there’s not enough stabilizers, your chlorine will burn off quickly.  If there’s too much stabilizer in your pool water, your chlorine can become ineffective, and it could cause problems with your pool surface, pumps, and plumbing.  If not balanced properly, your pool water can become unsafe to swim in and damage the pool. 

High phosphate levels feed algae and promote algae growth, which in turn makes it more difficult and expensive to kill the algae and keep your pool chemistry balanced.  We test for phosphates when we see repetitive algae outbreaks and or water clarity issues.